Horween and Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan side by side after eight years — contrast in sheen and surface

Eight Years In — Horween and Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan

Horween Shell Cordovan Money Clip 02 and Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan Card Wallet 01, eight years of use
A long-time customer recently sent back two pieces from 2017 — a Horween Shell Cordovan Money Clip 02 and a Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan Card Wallet 01, both in Burgundy. Same owner, eight years of daily use, both returned to the bench together.

Horween Shell Cordovan — Money Clip 02
The surface has grown brighter and smoother with eight years of handling. The oil sheen has deepened, and reflections come through sharp.

Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan — Card Wallet 01
Less glossy than when new — the surface has settled into a matte, even finish. The hand has changed more than the look: from the firm, crisp feel of new Shinki to something finer and more supple, with a resilient spring to it.

Side by side, the two leathers age in different directions — Horween toward brighter and smoother, Shinki toward matte and more supple in the hand.

Horween Shell Cordovan Money Clip 02 after eight years — bright, smooth surface with deep oil sheen
Horween Shell Cordovan Money Clip 02 — surface and stitching after eight years
Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan Card Wallet 01 — close view of surface and stitchingOn the thread
Both pieces were stitched with Fil au Chinois waxed linen, in the finest gauge — the thread I used until 2017. I wanted the thinnest, cleanest stitch line I could get, but at that gauge the wax wears off and the fibers fray after a year or two of heavy daily use. Enough customers sent pieces back for restitching that I switched to Supersew MBT Polyester in 2018 — same fine gauge, much longer thread life. Restitching requests dropped off after the switch.

Supersew MBT Polyester thread and the two pieces before restitching
Removing the old stitching with an awl
Fil au Chinois waxed linen after eight years — wax worn off, fibers frayed
Deep cleaning the Money Clip 02 with a brush before restitching
Leather cleaning and conditioning before restitching
Hand-stitching with Supersew MBT Polyester thread
Money Clip 02 and Card Wallet 01 before restitchingMoney Clip 02 and Card Wallet 01 after restitching
Money Clip 02 before restitchingMoney Clip 02 after restitching
Money Clip 02 interior before restitching — Buttero lining after eight yearsMoney Clip 02 interior after restitching and conditioning
Card Wallet 01 before restitching — with custom initial stampingCard Wallet 01 after restitching

Money Clip 02 unfolded after restitching — the Horween surface refreshed
Card Wallet 01 after restitching — showing the custom initial stamping preserved
Money Clip 02 interior after restitching — all layers refreshed

These two came back for exactly that — fresh stitching. The leather is in excellent condition. Deep clean, condition, then restitch by hand with Supersew thread. Back in rotation.

Restitching service for card wallets, bifold wallets, money clip wallets, and passport holders will be listed under the Customization collection.

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