Leather Care Guide

Shell cordovan asks for less care than most people expect. A quick brush, keeping water away, and time do the rest. Here is everything worth knowing.

Daily use

Scratches. Shell cordovan is remarkably durable, but sharp objects still leave marks — keys, coins, fingernails. Light scratches usually settle back into the surface with handling.

Water. Shell cordovan is not water-resistant. If it gets wet, blot gently with a dry soft cloth and let it air dry — no hair dryers, no direct sunlight. Horween is less prone to water marks if the water is wiped off right away, but prolonged contact can still leave marks. Shinki Hikaku is more sensitive, and even a single drop can leave a spot that takes a long stretch of use to fade. More on their two characters in this comparison.

Heat and humidity. Prolonged heat or a humid environment degrades leather. Store in a cool, ventilated place.

Pressure. Heavy objects left on top can leave permanent indentations. Don't stack weight on it.

Wiping. A clean, dry soft cloth now and then keeps dust off and the natural luster up. Honestly, this plus a horsehair brush is most of what I do to my own pieces.

Conditioning. Optional — some owners never condition and let the years leave their marks; others like to keep the surface dressed. If you do, use a dedicated shell cordovan conditioner sparingly — too much can build up on the surface and dull the finish. I recommend SAPHIR Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream No. 02 (Neutral), available at major retailers.

The interior. Linings are vegetable-tanned cowhide (Buttero and others) — any conditioner made for veg-tanned leather is suitable.

Scratches that bother you

For light surface scratches, put a small amount of conditioner on a soft cloth and buff gently in circles. This softens their appearance; deeper scratches may not fully disappear — at that point they're part of the story.

Long-term storage

Use a breathable dust bag to keep dust and sunlight off. Store it in a dry cabinet to help prevent mildew. Air it out once in a while — leather sealed away too long isn't happy either.

When a piece needs more than care

Restitching and edge work for older pieces are available under Customization. Wallets from ten years back still come home for a refresh — this pair did.